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Dawwat: a Pakistani feast

The latest Guild of Food Writers workshop, hosted by the fabulous Sumayya Usmani, was an introduction to Pakistan’s food heritage, history and evolution. After moving to the UK eight years ago, Sumayya was shocked to find such a poor appreciation of her native cuisine - something she’s worked hard, through her writing and cookery teaching, to address ever since.

 
 

The workshop began with an insight into the sheer variety of food eaten in different regions of the country, reflecting the ethnic and cultural diversity. The history of invasions, its geographical borders, diverse landscapes and extremes of climate have created a culinary melting pot. Pakastani dishes range from Mughlai cuisine developed in the imperial kitchens of the Mughal Empire, to street food and the Indian mainstays more often associated with the subcontinent.

Sumayya described a day typically starting with a breakfast of spiced chickpeas and meat "curry" – although she explained that there is actually no such word in the Pakistani language. Due to the climate lunch is usually fairly light, unless of course it's “biryani day” - the cultural equivalent of fish and chip friday in the UK. The main meal, normally taken late in the evening, is more substantial and followed by seasonal fruits, with desserts eaten at any time of day alongside a cup of Chai. To be honest, this calorific description didn't quite tally with our svelte host, but the point was made - Pakistani's enjoy their food.

The conservative nature of the country, which is alcohol-free for the muslim majority, is one of the key reasons that food is so culturally important. It is, explained Sumayya, the most accessible form of entertainment and plays a central part in every major celebration from birth to death. No-one would be invited to a Pakistani home without an offer of food and when people wish to give thanks they will often do so by cooking up a feast for the poor.

After the talk, it was time to sample the food. One of the defining themes of Pakistani cookery is the use of techniques to build layers of flavour. A simple lamb chop, Sumayya explained, might be treated with an overnight marinade of garlic, ginger, fried onions, lemon and garam masala, grilled on the barbecue for a smokey umami flavour and then served with a light sprinkling of lemon juice, garam masala and fresh coriander. She then demonstrated some examples of these age-old cooking methods through a traditional tasting menu, or Dawwat (“Feast”).    

To get everybody in the mood, a Sindhi-style welcome drink of spice-infused almond milk was followed by a starter of paneer and pomegranate samosas with chillied black chickpeas.    

Beef Haleem, often eaten during Ramadan, was slow cooked until the spices, meat, lentils and wheat had melted into a delicious homogenous paste. Along with green daal, this was used to demonstrate tempering (tarka) where whole spices are infused in hot oil and mixed in to a dish at the start or end of cooking.

After cooking a classic Keema, ghee was poured over a lit charcoal briquette to lightly smoke the meat. Sumayya explained that this simple technique, "dhunai", is often used to impart a BBQ flavour to Pakistani food – although, she admitted, it should probably not be practised in close proximity to a smoke alarm. 

Finally, dumm, the traditional Persian method of cooking under steam, was demonstrated through a delicious green chicken biryani. This resulted in a fantastically moist and flavoursome main course, served with an extra helping of useful tips – wash and soak your rice to remove excess starch; infuse the dish with aromatics such as lemon, mint leaves and whole chillies; and drizzle over saffron water, melted ghee and kewra (screw-pine water) for a really authentic flavour.

To ensure everyone went home happy we were all treated to Qawwami Seviyan, a sweet vermicelli dessert made with sugar, milk, saffron, fruit and nuts infused with cardamom and topped with rose petals. Judging by the smiles, this seemed to do the trick and capped off a fascinating, and extremely tasty, introduction to Pakistani cuisine. 

 

*A massive thank you to Joanna Yee for all of the pictures in this post. Enjoy Noma!

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In search of perfect...ragu alla bolognese

 
 

If you’re looking for an authentic ragu recipe, good luck. Depending on which “authority” you decide to consult, and the birthplace of their own mamma and pappa, you’ll find something different. Just think about the meat - minced beef surely? Well, actually, no. In Venice you’ll get duck, in the north wild boar and in the south you’ll find various mixtures of veal and pork. Then there’s the sauce - some recipes insist on wine, others stock and some just pure unadulterated passata. To be honest the only real constants seem to be that ragu must include meat, tomatoes and be cooked for hours on end. So, I’ll give you my views on the perfect ragu but you’ll have to accept that there isn’t an Italian alive that will agree…

The meat

  • As I said, this is a matter of preference, although I think that the mince should include a mixture of beef and pork for flavour and texture. Try to get tougher cuts of meat as these are more flavoursome but will break down deliciously during the long slow cooking.
  • To this I would add pancetta, which helps to season the dish, and some finely chopped liver. Don’t be afraid by the offal, it’s imperceptible, I promise, but adds an amazing richness and depth of flavour to the sauce.

The vegetables

  • All great Italian stews start with “soffritto” - the holy trinity of carrot, celery and onion. Finely chopped and cooked until caramelised, ideally almost burnt, this adds a delicious sweetness to offset the richness of the pancetta and liver.
  • Unless you’re making your ragu in the height of summer I would recommend tinned tomatoes. Of course, this won’t satisfy the food snob, but let’s be honest you’d rather have tomatoes picked at the height of their season and then canned, than insipid “fresh” tomatoes with the flavour of used dish water.

The herbs

  • According to Antonio Carluccio, adding herbs breaks every rule of traditional ragu making. I’m sure he's more of an authority on such things, but the reality is they make the final sauce taste better. This means that a little basil or oregano is to be applauded – so please accept my permission to go ahead and break the rules.

The rest

  • Some half decent red wine is really the only other thing needed for an amazing sauce. However, if you’re really going for something special, then a small amount of my favourite ingredient, umami paste, is an absolute must.*

The cooking

  • This is the one area that everybody seems to agree, low-and-slow is the only route to an amazing sauce. I like to cook mine for 4 hours at a lovely low temperature, so that the sauce barely bubbles. This is the only way to guarantee the richness of flavour and meltingly soft meat that is the holy grail of pasta sauces.

If you think I’m a ragu philistine then please let me know, otherwise try my perfect ragu alla bolognese and decide for yourself.

*this is not traditional in any way whatsoever. Oh well…

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RESTAURANT REVIEW: Layla

One of the perks of a food bloggers life is the occasional invite to offer your two-penneth-worth on a new restaurant. So it was that I found myself asked along to sample the dishes at Layla – a recent addition to the culinary heart of Wimbledon Village.

Layla has been serving authentic Lebanese food to the well-heeled residents of Esher for years and opened this second branch eight months ago to some pretty positive reviews.

The restaurant itself provides a perfect backdrop for this type of cuisine. There are ornate chandeliers bigger than the average London maisonette, carved alcoves providing privacy to loved-up couples and swathes of draped fabric in the oversized skylight - presumably to make diners feel like they’re in a posh Bedouin tent. The menu is full of delicious Middle-Eastern morsels including mezze, spiced meats and marinated fish dishes and is a great alternative to the typical high street blandness served-up by many of the surrounding chains.

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According to our waiter, the place is “triple booked” every Friday and Saturday night (so it must be “quinitruply booked” during Wimbledon fortnight) when the atmosphere is ratcheted up with live music and entertainment. I was on a midweek visit with my better half so we were treated to a quieter night, perfect for a romantic rendezvous with no temptation to get involved in the weekend belly dancing...

We started with the hot and cold mezze platter, made up of the usual suspects of hommus, baba ghannuge, muhamara, flat breads, falafel and Kibbeh (Lebanese meatballs) - all classics and completely delicious. We particularly liked the muhamara: a spicy red pepper, walnut, chilli and pomegranate dip.

I let the chef choose my main course and was rewarded with "Castaleta Ghanam" - perfectly chargrilled lamb cutlets, on a bed of baked potatoes and roast vegetables.

The remains of my lamb cutlets...mmm...

The remains of my lamb cutlets...mmm...

For dessert, our waiter recommended the raspberry crème brûlée. Whilst tasty, I was left a little perplexed how this fitted into the Persian menu and wonder whether it couldn’t have been infused with some middle eastern flavours (maybe a little rose water or pomegranate molasses?).  

All in all, Layla has got a lot of things right – the environment, the service and the quality rustic food were all top notch – however, this is not cheap, so you can’t help thinking that extending the lunch time deals might get the Wimbledon locals out of their post-winter slumber and create a midweek atmosphere to match the weekends.

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